Its all about the Terracotta.

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Teatree Handmade Terracotta 340×340

Kitchen, conservatory or living room; terracotta once fully sealed is suitable for most areas in the house. With the added benefit that terracotta retains heat better than any other tile, the floor should never feel ice-cold to the touch. If used with underfloor heating these tiles will retain the heat even when the heating has been turned off.

Teatree terracotta tiles are handmade and therefore no two tiles are alike, they will have all the characteristics of a natural product; colour tone variation, minor structural deficiencies such as pitting, and other marks all of which make each terracotta floor unique.

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Teatree Handmade Terracotta 340×340

The terracotta will come in its natural form, and so before sealing the tiles it is advisable to rub them down with an cloth to clear them of dust and any possible chipped edges. Seal with LTP Boiled Linseed Oil, not only does this intensify the colour, but as the Boiled Linseed Oil cures it hardens within the pores of the terracotta giving the floor extra mechanical strength.

Finally apply two coats of LTP Antique Wax, this aids in protecting the surface of the terracotta as well as giving the terracotta and grout a little more depth and colour.
The first coat should be applied before grouting to aid grout removal, and then a final coat after the grout has dried. This then protects the grout from staining.

If you require a more uniform terracotta you can opt for the Jose sempre machine-made terracotta.

These tiles have straight edges and each tile is very similar in size shape and thickness, so they will look very different from their handmade counter parts.
Furthermore, rather than using boiled linseed oil, you can seal them with LTP Mattstone to keep the terracotta looking as close to its natural form as possible whilst also protecting the terracotta from staining.

Jose sempre 20 x 20 c

Jose Sempre Machine made 200×200, Sealed with LTP Mattstone & LTP Clear Wax

The Handmade teatree tiles have been sealed with 3-4 coats of LTP Boiled Linseed Oil and 2 coats of LTP Antique Wax.
A sealing guide is as follows;

Once tiles have been layed in to a full bed of adhesive but before they have been grouted they will need a generous coat of LTP Boiled Linseed Oil applied with a paint brush.
The Oil is designed to soak into the tile and fill the pores from within, the oil then hardens within the pores.
Remove any excess that remains on the surface of the tile after 30 mins, and leave for 8-12 hours and then repeat.

200×200 terracotta should need approx 2-3 coats.
340×340 terracotta should need approx 3-4 coats.

After the final coat of linseed oil leave for 24 hours before waxing.
NB: Used Boiled Linseed Oil cloths can be a fire risk, dispose of any soiled cloths as per instructions on bottle.

Apply as generous coat of LTP Antique Wax with a micro fibre cloth and leave for 15 minutes , then buff well using a soft brush or buffing machine. Leave for one hour before grouting.

When the grouting has fully dried, apply a final coat of antique wax over the tile and the grout joints, rub in with a fluff-free cloth and buff.
Protect from water for 24 hours and do not wash surfaces for at least three days.

Handmade Terracotta in the process of being sealed

Handmade Terracotta in the process of being sealed

Finally, to ensure you get the best from your terracotta floor, use LTP waxwash aftercare for routine maintenance, this not only cleans the floor, but protects the sealer at the same time.

Please note that this information is offered as general guidance only and without guarantee. Your specific circumstances may need an alternative approach. In case of doubt, any process should be tried out in an inconspicuous area before general application.

 

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Why Do I Need To Seal My Floor Or Wall Tiles?

Here at Wellington Tile we quite often get asked, why do i need to seal natural stone?  Natural stone like Terracotta, Slate, Polished Porcelain & Quarry Tiles ect.

Well its because they are Naturally porous, and if left unsealed every piece of dirt and grime will be absorbed by your natural stone, giving you a really big clean up job, to prevent this from happening we would definitely recommend sealing them.

 There are essentially three aims when sealing a tile.

  • Stain Prevention
  • Surface Protection
  • Surface Enhancement

It is not always possible or indeed necessary to achieve all the aims, however stain prevention tends to be the overriding aim.

To achieve these aims there is the choice of two types of sealers

These will either be spirit based or water based.

These two types of sealers can be used independently or together depending on the type of surface being sealed and depending on the type of finish required:

Essentially there are three types of finish:

The first two are achieved with impregnating sealers, and the third with Surface sealers

 Impregnating Sealers:

Unsealed, most natural tiles are absorbent to some degree or other, just  pour a tea

Natural stone protected with LTP Mattstone

spoon of water on to an unsealed tile and observe how quickly the water is absorbed. English Limestone, Sandstone, Marble  and Terracotta tend to be the most absorbent and denser surfaces such as Granite and basalt? Much less absorbent, Travertine and Slate sit somewhere in the middle.

Full bodied Porcelain and Quarry Tiles may seem highly vitrified, but they can still be absorbent. On the whole the cheaper the tile here, the more absorbent it is likely to be..

 Tiles have small pin-holes and open fissures as part of its natural texture. This texture will tend to accumulate grit and stains as part of the natural wearing process and unless they are impregnated will cause the floor to stain.of water on to an unsealed tile and

An impregnating sealer will have a carrier, often white spirit and a sealer within it. Once absorbed the carrier evaporates leaving the sealer in situ protecting the tile just below the surface

Depending on the porosity of the tile, a second or third coat of sealer may be needed.

In some cases a secondary seal is required to protect the surface of the tile, or to give the surface a gloss or satin finish.

Impregnating sealers are absorbed into the tile sealing it just below the surface, they tend not to alter the characteristic of the tile and whilst they offer mechanical strength to a tile and in some cases ..colour enhancement.., they will not offer surface protection.

 Surface sealers

 To achieve surface protection and a different finish to the tile , a surface sealer is used, these will provide the tile with a gloss or satin finish. In this case clearly the natural look of the tile is being altered.

As a general rule surface sealers tend to be water based, rather than spirit based and

Apply LTP Glaze Protector

depending on the nature of the surface being sealed can be used on their own or in conjunction with an impregnating sealer.

 

Advantages and disadvantages of Spirit Based & Water Based Sealers

Spirit based and water based sealers now perform equally well provided you purchase a water based sealer rather than a water based water repellent.

In our experience whilst water based impregnating sealers are becoming more widely used for environmental reasons, spirit based sealers are still much more popular for the simple reason: they are easier to apply.  Spirit is a better carrier than water, so spirit based sealers transport the sealer deeper into a tile.

However, as with paints the trend is away from solvent/spirit based products to waterbased sealers.

Another reason for considering waterbased sealers is they have much less odour than spirit based sealers.

External Use:  Swimmimg Pool surrounds: Wet Rooms:

In most circumstances impregnating sealers will be breathable allowing use in wet area’s and outside.

This is not always the case with surface sealers:

Whether they are polyurethane varnishes or waterbased;  surface sealers are not breathable and should not be specified for wet area’s or externally.

And finally

 Everything above applies to grout joints as well as tiles. So remember to seal the grouting as well to achieve a perfect durable finish for your tiled surface with LTP Grout & Tile Protector.

LTP 600ml Grout & Tile Protector Aerosol

 

A Collection Of Images From Finished Projects.

TERRACOTTA
Terracotta Hand made 30x30

Terracotta Hand made 30×30

Terracotta Hand made 30x30

Terracotta Hand made 30×30

 

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TRAVERTINE/LIMESTONE

Dinning Room Floor 3 SAMSUNG TECHWIN DIGIMAX-340 Around Swimming Pool 2 Wet Room Walls & Floors 1 wet room 1 Kitchen Diner Floor 1

Olive Flagstone

Olive Limestone Flagstone

SLATE

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Brazilian Black Slate

Brazilian Black Slate

Rustic Multi Slate

Rustic Multi Slate

Rustic Multi Slate

Rustic Multi Slate

Rustic Multi Slate

Rustic Multi Slate

GLAZED WALL & FLOOR TILES

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Oxida

Oxida

Bronzea

Bronzea

canamia secoyva (1) IMG_20140319_200115

 

DSC_1413 DSC_1392 DSC_1390 DSC_1388

 

For More Images Please Visit Our Facebook Page Wellington-Tile-Company Or Our Twitter Page @Wellytile

What Colour Grout Should I Use?

Deciding what grout colour to use is purely a personal preference, but there are a few hints and advice we have accumulated over the years, on how to achieve the look your after.

BronziaBronzia

 

 

 

 

The above images show the effects of different grout colours, the picture on the left has a very light grout colour and frames the tiles. Whereas the image on the right has grout more to the colour of the tiles and so blends in with the tiles. Grouting is an important part of the decision process. 

If you wish for the tiles to stand out and be “framed” then go for a contrasting colour, but be careful as sometimes all you will see is the grout and not the other way around, try with some grout swatches first, or have a look in our showroom, as we have nearly all the tiles on display with grouting to show the different choices available.


jose sempra 15x30

 

 

 

 

Another important aspect of tiling is choice of grout size, often wrong grout width choice can ruin the look of a tiled area. Have a go with a few tiles on the floor, put a 3mm joint between them and have a look, keep going until you find the space you prefer the most.

In our showroom you will see many displays of tiles with various grout widths and our fully trained staff will be more than willing to advice you on the correct choice to give you your required look.

Or call us on 01823 667242 

Alternatively visit Our website www.wellingtontile-online.co.uk

HOW DO I LAY STONE FLOOR TILES, PORCELAIN OR CERAMIC FLOOR TILES?

 

DT DISPLAY final look

Customers in our showroom often ask “Can I tile myself or do I need to employ a tiler?” 

If you have time, patience & some DIY skills then tiling is a job which can be done by the customer.need to employ a tiler?”

Listed below are some helpful hints to DIY tile fitting.

Planning and preparation is key.

First make sure you know your floor substrate and the correct preparation required prior to tiling.

All surfaces, including existing tiles, must be clean, firm, dry, free from dust, dirt, oil and grease, and strong enough to support the weight of the tiles and the adhesive. When tiling on to timber floors the surface should be prepared to provide a rigid and secure base without any deflection.

Some Questions to ask

Q:What is my floor substrate?

A: Useful link: (www.tiles.org/help) 

Q:Is it suitable to tile straight on to?

A: Most substrates can be tiled onto but will need different preparations (www.tiles.co.uk/help)

Q:Can I tile on top of existing tiles?

A: Yes provided they are soundly fitted to the floor and you prepare the (surface correctly

Q:Can I have underfloor heating under tiles?

A: Underfloor heating system are available to go under most floor surfaces for further details email: info@wellingtontile.co.uk

 

Q:How many square metres do I require?

A: By measuring the room dimensions and sending them to Info@wellingontile.co.uk we will calculate your requirements and will include a suggested 10% cutting allowance or try our tile calculator

Q:Will I need expansion joints?

A:normally around the edge of the room it is good practice. (www.uofcts.org

Q:What tools will I need

A: Notched Trowel, Grout Float, Hydro Sponge, Spacers,  Cutter, and for natural stone tiles additional: Cleaning & sealing kits 

Now you are ready make sure you have the correct tiles,tools, adhesive and grout ready for your job.

Laying

Find the centre point of the room and section into quarters.

Work one quarter at a time, if possible lay your tiles out without adhesive first to check the finished effect and to arrange the cuts at the edge of the room.

You would normally lay from different boxes to avoid shade variation rather than one box at a time.

Spread the adhesive evenly using a notch trowel or spreader. Laying Adhesive still(08-01-2014 15-12) JPEGPlace the tile in position, giving it a slight twist to bed in to the adhesive. Continue laying your tiles leaving a grout joint of your choice (NEVER butt joint). 

Helpful tip: spread a thin layer of adhesive on the back of the tiles as well to achieve perfect bond.


Check from time to time that your tiles are level (by using a spirit level) and that there are no hollows under the tiles.

Lay the quarters until all that is left are the cuts around the Tiling still 2 (08-01-2014 14-54) JPEGedges of the room.

Clean the tiles regularly to avoid adhesive remaining on the tiles and remove excess adhesive in the joints.

It is recommend to leave the tiles for 24 hours before cutting and laying the edge tiles.


Grouting

Allow the adhesive to dry (cure) before grouting.

If the tiles require sealing such as natural stone, terracottapolished porcelain & slate then applying 1st coat of sealer before grouting- this not only helps ensure the grout does not stain the tile, but it also helps with the cleaning of the excess grout.

Grouting still 2 (08-01-2014 15-01) JPEG

Using your grout float apply enough grout as you can effectively work with.

Press the grout into the joints (in a diagonal direction) to an even level with the tile. Remove the excess from the tile with the grout float.

Washing Grout Still (08-01-2014 15-23) JPEG

Wait for the grout to stiffen then using a damp sponge work across the joints being careful not to drag the grout out of the joints. Clean as you work checking the grout joints are full and smoothly finished.

Useful link (www.tile.org.uk/joints) 

Leave for the entire floor to cure. Grout residue (hazing) can be removed with LTP Grout St Remover (on the appropriate tiles).

 

The foregoing advice, whilst given in good faith and from experience gained in various installation situations is for guidance purposes only. If in doubt at any stage of floor laying, experiment before proceeding further or seek further advice. Neither the supplier nor the manufacturers will be liable for any dissatisfaction resulting from these instructions nor will they in any circumstances accept responsibility for any damaged or incorrect tiles once they have been fixed.

 

 

Terracotta Wall and Floor Tiles

Terracotta Wall and Floor Tiles  

Terracotta tiles, from the Latin terra cotta meaning baked earth are just that:

Examples of terracotta floors

Terracotta is a traditional, authentic flooring tiles that possess a warmth, a charm and a character, often missing from more contemporary factory produced alternatives .

Spain and Mexico tend to be the main sources of terracotta floor tiles sold in the UK, however it is possible to buy terracotta from a range of other countries such as China, Vietman, Iran  and India.

Terracotta tiles as a flooring was a popular choice in the 1980’s and 1990’s in the UK as the unsophisticated warm finish it offered complemented the design requirements of the time which tended to focus on rustic, farmhouse/cottage style kitchens and barn conversions.

Since then the fashion and demand for natural tiles has shifted towards stone and travertine, however the demand for terracotta floor tiles still remains solid in more rural locations especially for barn conversions.

Terracotta tiles fall into one of two categories: Machine made terracotta tiles and Handmade terracotta tiles.

Machine Made Terracotta Floor Tiles

Our Jose Sempre range of Machine Made terracotta tile tends to be  a more highly fired, disciplined, more vitrified tile similar to a quarry tiles, yet still possessing warmth and charm. A mellow sandy coloured terracotta tile, the tones varying from pale seinna to burnt amber.  The smooth and manicured look fits well in any location and works well in contemporary settings.

Jose Sempre terracotta floor tile example

Hand-made and Semi Hand-made Terracotta Floor Tiles

Our range of Handmade or semi hand-made terracotta tiles are much more varied and rustic in appearance and are formed by pressing raw clay into molds: this produces a durable but low density tile.  Handmade terracotta tiles act as excellent insulators underfoot and are  especially suitable for use in conjunction with underfloor heating systems.

Hand-made terracotta tends to be either a honey/beige in colour or a rich leather red colour. In addition some tiles can be almost salmon pink in appearance.This terracotta tile shows all the characteristics associated with a handmade terracotta tile:  attractive colour, tone variation, minor structural deficiencies such as pitting, nooks and crannies on the surface and edges of the tile.

A kitchen floor laid with terracotta tiles

Do I Have to Seal Terracotta (Terra cotta) Tiles?

As with all natural tiles and grouting, sealing and maintenance is very important. In order to get the best out of your terracotta floor tiles it is vital to consider the sealing options and then to follow the prescribed maintenance regime as this will not only ensure that the natural character of the floor is fully enhanced, but also with correct maintenance the floor will continue to look at its best for many years.

For further information  on Cleaning, Sealing and Maintaining Terracotta (Traditional Method) please visit LTP