Customers in our showroom often ask “Can I tile myself or do I need to employ a tiler?”
If you have time, patience & some DIY skills then tiling is a job which can be done by the customer.need to employ a tiler?”
Listed below are some helpful hints to DIY tile fitting.
Planning and preparation is key.
First make sure you know your floor substrate and the correct preparation required prior to tiling.
All surfaces, including existing tiles, must be clean, firm, dry, free from dust, dirt, oil and grease, and strong enough to support the weight of the tiles and the adhesive. When tiling on to timber floors the surface should be prepared to provide a rigid and secure base without any deflection.
Some Questions to ask
Q:What is my floor substrate?
Q:Is it suitable to tile straight on to?
A: Most substrates can be tiled onto but will need different preparations (www.tiles.co.uk/help)
Q:Can I tile on top of existing tiles?
A: Yes provided they are soundly fitted to the floor and you prepare the (surface correctly)
Q:Can I have underfloor heating under tiles?
A: Underfloor heating system are available to go under most floor surfaces for further details email: email@example.com
Q:How many square metres do I require?
Q:Will I need expansion joints?
Q:What tools will I need
A: Notched Trowel, Grout Float, Hydro Sponge, Spacers, Cutter, and for natural stone tiles additional: Cleaning & sealing kits
Now you are ready make sure you have the correct tiles,tools, adhesive and grout ready for your job.
Find the centre point of the room and section into quarters.
Work one quarter at a time, if possible lay your tiles out without adhesive first to check the finished effect and to arrange the cuts at the edge of the room.
You would normally lay from different boxes to avoid shade variation rather than one box at a time.
Spread the adhesive evenly using a notch trowel or spreader. Place the tile in position, giving it a slight twist to bed in to the adhesive. Continue laying your tiles leaving a grout joint of your choice (NEVER butt joint).
Helpful tip: spread a thin layer of adhesive on the back of the tiles as well to achieve perfect bond.
Check from time to time that your tiles are level (by using a spirit level) and that there are no hollows under the tiles.
Clean the tiles regularly to avoid adhesive remaining on the tiles and remove excess adhesive in the joints.
It is recommend to leave the tiles for 24 hours before cutting and laying the edge tiles.
Allow the adhesive to dry (cure) before grouting.
If the tiles require sealing such as natural stone, terracotta, polished porcelain & slate then applying 1st coat of sealer before grouting- this not only helps ensure the grout does not stain the tile, but it also helps with the cleaning of the excess grout.
Using your grout float apply enough grout as you can effectively work with.
Press the grout into the joints (in a diagonal direction) to an even level with the tile. Remove the excess from the tile with the grout float.
Wait for the grout to stiffen then using a damp sponge work across the joints being careful not to drag the grout out of the joints. Clean as you work checking the grout joints are full and smoothly finished.
Useful link (www.tile.org.uk/joints)
Leave for the entire floor to cure. Grout residue (hazing) can be removed with LTP Grout St Remover (on the appropriate tiles).
The foregoing advice, whilst given in good faith and from experience gained in various installation situations is for guidance purposes only. If in doubt at any stage of floor laying, experiment before proceeding further or seek further advice. Neither the supplier nor the manufacturers will be liable for any dissatisfaction resulting from these instructions nor will they in any circumstances accept responsibility for any damaged or incorrect tiles once they have been fixed.